From horsing around to scooter trash

Today, Thursday, Feb. 19, we rented scooters.  Helmets were required.  Oh no.  Not only that, the only helmets they had were full-face.  How would we survive?

Pretty little scooters.  No blue ones for us.

Here's your full-face helmet shot, folks.

There was a little getting used to as they’re not 900-pound motorcycles.  Maybe they weigh a hundred pounds?  I don’t know.  They were light, but I was missing my floorboards and windshield.

 

Red rocks, even in a scooter

The wind pounded us some, but we prevailed and found our way to Rano Raraku, where I couldn’t find my park pass.  Crap!!!  We just went through, with her showing hers.  Made it.  But I figured they’d come after me.  Nah.  Pure of heart mostly … mostly works every time!!

Rano Raraku is the largest of two quarries on the island.  Both quarries are made of geologically dormant volcanic cones.  There are about 300 unfinished moai in the quarry, the largest of which could have stood 60 feet tall.

A tour guide said there are not many kneeling moais.

Each one is unique and beautiful.

There are massive statues, fallen statues and ones that appear to either have been abandoned or unfinished for some reason.  I also found out the many were decorated with shell-inlaid eyes. 

 

It appears that much of the moai form was carved while the rock was in place, and generally they were carved out as if they were lying in on their backs.  Then they were detached from the parent rock, moved to the lower slopes and pushed erect, where the carving was completed.  They were then moved from the quarry to their permanent location.

Everything about the moais is interesting.  This is one that is still on its back, where it will remain forever.

 

While some of these at the quarry may look unfinished, there is an argument that they may have been later buried by quarry debris, sometimes up to their necks.

There was nearly an issue with a horse, but Jaz put out her arm to let it know, "Come no closer"

After visiting the quarry we rode out to the beach as Jaz wanted to jump in the water.  This time we used the 500-peso per time toilet.  Wow.  What a deal.  There don’t seem to be public restrooms anywhere on the island except at the park and only one at each ranger station.  The first one we didn’t have to pay to use.

While Jaz went in, I sat primly along the water on a nice lava rock, keeping good care of our camera equipment.  Besides, I didn’t want to get my shoes wet and I don’t like to walk barefoot.

 

I like the water but prefer to be on top of, rather than in it.

My reward for being good was pineapple on a stick.  It was the second time I’d had it and it’s very delicious.  It was also entertaining to watch the guys cut the outer layer off and prepare it for our consumption.

Cutting pineapples for a living seems pretty good.  They were doing a great business.

These pineapple are so sweet and you can smell them from a long ways away.  They are grown on the island although we didn't know where to find them so didn't see the fields.
 

Yum, yum.  Better than

We got back to the room, had some lunch and decided to walk some more. It’s a great place to walk.

 

Found some bananas growing but they sure weren't ripe yet.

This dog was a great subject.  He posed and acted like he was doing us a favor.

Tired, but feeling good from all the walking.  Time for bed.

Easter Island by horseback

On Wednesday, Feb. 18, we had booked a horseback ride.  A gentleman picked us up and took us to where the horses where already saddled.  I was not in Kansas, Dorothy.  The saddles were not western, nor were they English.  They were South American, something in between, I guess.  It would be an interesting ride.

You can see by the shape of the saddle, and the high front that it's not likely to be any saddle that I've used before.  It's different, but it was very, very comfortable and I settled in like I'd been made to ride using one of these.

We were outfitted with chaplettes (they may be called caballo western riding half chaps) and polo-style helmets.  The chaplettes had a little elastic band at the bottom that fit under your shoe and Velcro to attach them at the back or side of your legs if you have little skinny chicken legs like mine.  Both the chaplettes and helmet were quite comfortable.

The chaplettes fit one inside the other and the sides fold over and Velcro together.  It makes a neat little package for transporting.

 

Snazzy little riding helmets and our chaplettes made us feel pretty styling.

We were all gussied up and ready to ride.

We mounted up for our ride.  We had all levels of experience.  One lady kept trying to slow her horse down by shushing it (which was not particularly helpful), and the kids wanted branches to use as switches so they could gallop.  Our handlers were a man and woman who wore red chaplettes.  I surely did covet those as they were beautiful rose red.  Perhaps I could have purchased a pair to wear on the motorcycle.

At times we were scattered all over in no particular order

Our lady handler was our leader and while she didn’t stay ahead of us leading, now and again she’d go up to the kids and slow them down.  The man was our sweep, and he was as good as my Royal Sweep (Fireman Mike).  He remained at the back and never let anyone get behind him.

Our lady handler was quite stylish with her red chaplettes and blue scarf.  She also had a beautiful smile.

We galloped, we loped, we trotted, we walked; the ride was mostly all uphill.  And we passed many people, both going up and coming down the hill.  I’d have never made that walk as it was a few miles in either direction. 

The ride was exquisite.  I’d been on a horse a few years ago on a 10-day cattle drive with a friend, and I’d had a very nice horse.  But this horse was even better.  His lope was smooth and I felt so comfortable on him.  Didn’t even find out his name.  But he did respond when I asked him to do anything, even slow down although I knew he would rather run with the kids.  We would, but then walk somewhere in between the kids who wanted to run full out and the ones behind us who wanted to do walking.

We were having fun ... riding horses, laughing, joking.  It was a great time.

I had gotten behind Jaz on her horse and was taking photos.  She’d been having issues with her camera bag coming open as the zipper kept unzipping.  She was in a trot and one of our handlers noticed the bag was open.  He was going to her to help, but I saw her camera trying to make an escape.  We’re not talking about a point-and-shoot $50 camera.  We’re talking about a thousand-dollar or better SLR Canon.  It kept bouncing higher and higher and closer to being out of the bag.  I moved my horse forward as she would not get stopped before the camera flew out of the bag to crash to the rocks and dirt below.  Just as it took its final leap to freedom I grabbed it out of mid-air and saved it.  I couldn’t let my friend’s camera get broken or trampled.  It was a happy moment and I kept her camera with me until we could get the zipper issue figured out.

You can see the open bag and the zipper just did not want to stay closed.

And then disaster struck.  I was at a slow lope and my right stirrup broke.  I hung on, pulling the reins to the left to circle my horse and slow him down.  But I could not get balanced on the horse and lay partially across him but was sliding, sliding, sliding.  In slow motion (or so it seemed) I was sliding down his right-hand side.  He was quite slow by the time I came off, slipping, quite awkwardly I'm sure, down to land on my feet, never letting go of either the reins, Jaz’s camera or my own pocket Canon.  A successful landing it was, as I was upright and not on my butt on the ground crabbing about trying to get back on my feet.
 

A successful mountain accent.

It was another adventure.  We were nearly to the top of the mountain where we were stopping anyway and my stirrup was fixed. 

Stirrup repair time.



The view of the city below was different than what we had seen previously. 

I hopped back on my horse for the ride down and was glad for the happy endings to our adventures as they could have been not-so-happy endings for both of us.

It truly was a fun day.

We were returned to our hotel none the worse for wear, took a break and then went to seek out some lunch and do some more walking around. 

That afternoon we located more moais down by the water by Rapa Nui. 



On this map you can see the triangle shape of the island.  The little stick marks are where the moais are located.

On the way to the moais we were treated to a lot of different sights.

Some surfers were catching waves.  They weren't big waves, but everyone seemed to be having fun.

Most of the moais are the real deal, but we found some that were not.  We had a bit of trouble discerning which was which.  We figure that the true moais are set back on stones, have a sign of some sort or rails around them.  But we weren't certain.

There were lots of little boats, and most of them were quite colorful.

There were some interesting carvings in the rocks.

But the beautiful water pulls your eyes to it.

These kind of make me think of sock monkeys for some reason.

More rocks.  More carvings.  Looks like a wizard.

We found these moais.  In looking back at all the photos I've taken, it appears that most of them face inward.  The things I've read say most of them faced outward, so maybe those have not been restored.

This island is beautiful.  It has beautiful things to see and it's so worth the time spent to get here.

One other thing we found during our wandering ways was a cemetery.  I'm usually pulled to go in as they are peaceful and there is a uniqueness about each of them.

It was just interesting to have this young man cutting through the cemetery on his way to the water.

Turtles are very big here.

Little houses cover portions of some of the graves.

This ceramic tile was both beautiful and colorful.  It probably brings joy to those who visit.

Some have interesting carvings.

Others have things like guitars.

Moai-style carvings adorn a number of the graves.

More colorful coverings and pavers.

And one of my favorite shots from this grouping.

We enjoyed our wandering, got back to hotel again by about 5:30 exhausted, and fell into bed, sleeping nearly through the night. 

 

 

 

 

 

Easter Island ... where's the Easter bunny?

We woke up Tuesday morning (February 17) to the crowing of roosters.  It’s a nice sound.  Turns out there are lots of chickens on the island.  I expect they are providing the eggs that we are being served for breakfast, along with local bread, sliced fruits, a slice of ham, a rolled up piece of cheese, and coffee … hot water and you add the amount of granules of Nescafe that you prefer. It was plenty to get us going, although the Nescafe was interesting and totally unexpected.  We found out later that Nescafe is big on the Island and has been highly promoted. It appears that our host, as well as others, think they are treating us well.  It certainly isn’t Kaladi coffee.  But we made do.

By now it was definitely time to get going.  We had places to go, things to see.  And Captain Cupcake had tasked us with the mission of finding the Easter bunny.



The town of Rapa Nui, from above the airport.  It isn't large.

Easter Island is known as Rapa Nui (and in Spanish Isla de Pascua).  It’s a Polynesian island, and one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world.  It’s located in the southeastern Pacific Ocean, about 2,200 miles off the coast of Chile.  It’s known for about 887 monumental statues, called moai, that were created by the early Rapa Nui people.  In 1995 it was named a World Heritage Site and much of the island is protected within the Rapa Nui National Park.  So one of our first stops was to purchase a park ticket, $60 US.  But I’m good with that as I’ve always liked to support the parks.

The park sign is sure different from what we're used to.

Rapa Nui had been a thriving culture with a population high estimated at about 15,000; however, the introduction of rats and overpopulation led to a deforestation and extinction of natural resources, causing the demise of the Rapa Nui civilization.  By 1722 the population had dropped to about 2-3,000.  With disease introduced by sailors and slave raiding, the population was decimated to 111 in 1877.  Of the current residents, numbered at about 5,800 in the 2012 census, about 60 percent are descendants of the aboriginal Rapa Nui.

We rented a car and went in search of the moais.  There are two main roads, one that follows the coastline around a portion of the island and one that goes through the middle.  We first drove to a volcano called Rano Kau, on the southwestern point of the island.  The island itself is shaped like a triangle, and the moais (heads) are located mostly around the coastline. 

The drive to the volcano was nice and we hiked the trails around it.  It appeared the lava from the volcano had blown a big hole around the edge of the volcano

The lush green and the sea blue complement each other.  The hillsides look nearly like velvet.

We also saw some old petroglyphs that we didn’t find the first round and had to go back.  But it was worth seeing them.

 There are quite a number of petroglyphs and they seem to be in very good shape.

I believe this is the Easter bunny that the island is named after.

Orango was the only ceremonial village that was built and used exclusively for religious purposes.  Although this site had a ceremonial use from earlier times, the construction of the village consolidated Orango as the most important ritual center across  the whole island.

The first houses were built during the 15th or 16th century.  The houses were home to chiefs, priests and others related to the ceremonies .  This area had been considered sacred since ancient times according to oral history.  It also overlooked the little islands where the seabirds nested.

The aerial view gives a better look of the volcano and the location of the houses to the left of the photo.

The ocean water is not the turquoise blue that I’ve seen elsewhere, but it is beautiful just the same.  There is a lot of the lava formations with the water breaking over them that just take your breath away by the beauty.  There are small areas where the water is turquoise, contrasting sharply with the darker color of the ocean.

The various lava formations are spectacular.  A small boat off to the right of the closer one hung out there for quite a while.  We couldn't figure out if they were fishing or diving or just enjoying the scenery.

We left the volcano and saw three hitchhikers.  Don’t pick up hitchhikers I was always told.  We picked them up, two young ladies and a guy.  They had walked all the way up and were walking back.  It would have been quite the hike.  Tired me out just thinking about it.  They were going to go have lunch and we kind of invited ourselves.  While we did have some language barriers we were able to get our points across to each other.  The restaurant they took us to was on the water and had some of the best fish I’ve ever tasted.  It may have been mahi mahi, or not, but had a mango salsa that was creamy with a wonderful delicate flavor.  The salad I chose with it was fresh out of the garden with all kinds of greens, tomato, and other things.  It was fabulous.  (And we went back on our own another night, and also told one of the hotel guests who ended up eating there a couple of times as well.)

There's always room for a cow photo.  I think this one was telling me he didn't want his photo taken.

After lunch we got serious about finding the moais.  We drove to each location and then hiked to see them.  Many of them are a quarter-mile or better from the road so there was always a bit of exercise involved.  Most of them have been knocked down … and it’s a rather sad sight to see that devastation. 

Vinapu was the first area where we went to see the moais.  We hadn't gotten very far around the island yet.

These moais had been toppled and their heads rolled away from the bodies to the foreground. 

 

At the Vaihu site you can see how far the pukao or heads rolled from the statues.

A paina, or circle of stones, is located in front of the ahu, known as a platform alter ceremonial or shrine.  This circular area had special ceremonial significance in ancient times and was where commemorative rituals were carried out.  

We did have the tendency to dilly dally as the coastline and waves were spectacular.

At the Akahanga location you can see the head and how far behind it the rest of the statues are.



However, some have been picked up and restored, more than once.  The Tongariki site is about the northernmost part of the coastal road before it turns inland.  It is where the most statues are located and as you approach them you are awed to silence

 



Easter Island's crown jewel is the Tongariki location where the moais have been restored.



The moais were moved and placed gently upon the ahu or platform.  The moais were believed to have been toppled in the 17th century during a tribal war.  They were restored and knocked down again in 1960 due to a tsunami from an earthquake.

 In 1992 Japan and Chile reached an agreement to restore the statues and the project was completed in 1996.

The 15 statues are magnificent and everything and more than what I thought they would be.

They are stately and majestic, watching over their land.  They have a unique, untamed beauty, and seeing them only confirms that this was the side trip for us.  The ruins and falls will have to wait for another time.

We got too close to some of the statues without realizing there was a boundary.  We heard yelling and wondered who knew they were yelling at ... us.  We figured it out.  I did go and apologize as I thought that appropriate.  Another language or communication barrier, but all ended well.

We also made it to the other ranger station at Rano Raraku, where there’s a hiking trail and a quarry to where statues were carved.  We were too late as it had closed so we decided to come back another day.

On we went, reaching Anakena, where there are more moais and a beautiful white sand beach.  The toilettes closed at 8 p.m.  Uh oh.  I was beginning to be quite needy for a bano (toilet).  But no luck.  Hold it.  Okay, and off we went to walk to the moai.  

The statues are beautiful here, too, but we were losing light and the silhouette shot seemed to fit.

The horses wander everywhere, kicking up their heels, rolling in the sand.  This is a beautiful white sand beach here and it was fun to walk in the sand while looking at the statues.

We drove on and back via the road through the middle of the island, made it home by dark, found a market and got some yogurt, cheese and salami.  Snacks.  Right stuff, right amount.  Another great day.